Feb 24 2005

The Art of the Taco


Los tacos de Tacodeli: fish (left) and the peerless Frontera Fundido

Tacodeli has perfected the taco with a little number they like to call Frontera Fundido. This sublime example of the taqueriador’s art is chunks of toothsome pot roast with fried onions and crisp poblano peppers. The secret ingredient is the mysterious "mouth-watering cheese glaze." I can’t explain what a "cheese glaze" is.

Tacodeli appears to adhere to the usual bullshit patriarchal class structure. White male models from the Urban Outfitters catalog run the place, while the exceptional Frontera Fundidos are assembled by small Mexican women hidden from public view by a dirty curtain.

1 comment

  1. Ray

    One fish and one fundido is my standard lunch at least once a week.

    The owner is Mexican, just not “fresh off the boat”, so to speak, as they used to say about those of us from cultures who, er, immigrated by boat. And they’ve added a selection of hot hippie chicks to the front office now, all fairly Nor’ Euro in appearance, which is nice if like me you like that sort of thing.

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