I regret that I don’t have time to finish writing today’s article (a real treat: abortion vs. organ donation) before sauntering merrily off to Cancerland for this week’s toxic infusion. Until I get back, here’s the “hippie” salad I had for lunch at the Four Seasons a couple of days ago. This ludicrous salad has about 457 things going on, and it kind of doesn’t work, yet the imp of the perverse compels me to order it every time. I am fascinated by its excess to the extent that I lapse into an unattractive whine on those odd occasions when it is absent from the menu. Globs of hummus and guacamole, garbanzo beans, currants, cornbread croutons, candied pecans, feta cheese, smoked onion vinaigrette— the dish just barely clings to reality. To the chef’s credit, it is completely unobstructed by frisÃ©e.