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Sep 12 2006

Patagonia to Women Rock Climbers: ‘A Delicate Pointelle Weave Offers a Touch of Femininity’

vogue.jpg

Each new weekday that dawns on the Twisty Bungalow brings with it a fresh bombardment of mail order catalogs. I did not ask to be inundated with mail order catalogs, but you know how it is. Some achieve garbage, others have garbage thrust upon them.

Anyway, owing to ankle surgery, I’ve been laid up lo these past four weeks with strict orders from my surgeon not to engage in any of the pursuits from which I derive my entire identity, such as mountaineering, clogging, and bungee-jumping. There’s no sense, I’ve reasoned (having gone off, it should be noted, my nut, from cabin fever) in suffering this imprisonment without also trying to reap some collateral benefit of convalescitude, so I’ve also recused myself from any chores that require me to move more than a yard away from the futon-cocoon I now call home. If I can’t audition for Riverdance, I can’t do laundry, dammit. Or recycle catalogs.

Consequently there are about 63 million catalogs up in this mug. In one of the mounds I espied the Patagonia Fall/Winter Climbing and Mountaineering catalog, full of gorgeous pictures of hale and hearty frostbitten youths being X-treme. And, it turns out, because even mountain-climbing gear must kiss the dominant culture’s ass, it’s also full of shit.

Smushed like boobs in a corset into the back few pages of this super-dudely catalog is the women’s gear. Although Patagonia asserts that ‘a woman on the move needs clothes that won’t hold her back,’ it’s clear what they really mean: a woman on the move should buy stuff to accommodate antediluvian patriarchal dress codes.

Descriptions of Patagonia men’s clothing stick to technical aspects (’burly shell fabric’, ’a gasket-style neck forms a streamlined seal’), but when you’re a woman scaling El Capitan, guess what? You gotta be feminine. You need an ‘irrepressible knit that keeps its feminine shape.’ You need ‘feminine quilting throughout [to add] a touch* of elegance.’ You need a ‘clean, feminine fit.’ You need a ‘a contoured bodice that flows princess-style to an elegant and feminine mid-thigh hem.’

Otherwise the other rock climbers might fail to immediately perceive your pitiful low status and accidentally treat you like a human for a few seconds.

Should there linger any doubts concerning proof of my fashion = misogyny hypothesis, I refer you to this slide show from Italian Vogue.

[Gracias, Hexia]

________________________

*Quit touching me!

91 comments

1 ping

  1. schatze

    So there really is a Fashion Police. Guilty of ugly clothes and too much eye make up is my guess.

  2. Summer

    Is the Italian Vogue crap a joke? Satire of some sort?

    Please, please tell me it is.

  3. sockpuppet

    I just read a really exciting short story in the *New Yorker* where a 15 year old prostitute kills a John and then gets drowned by her pimp. It’s typical *New Yorker* low-life fiction. Well, these days they have to compete with the catalogues.
    –Hattie’s Sockpuppet

  4. alwaysarousedgirl

    That slide show was seriously disturbing. Please tell me it was a joke?

  5. Twisty

    Sure it’s a joke. It’s funny to take hot young supermodels and grind’em under your boot.

  6. Hawise

    The President has convinced the Corporate world that there are thousands of terrorists out there. The corporate response- try to sell them upscale fashion clothes in a trendy heroin-chic way. Don’t be a fashion disaster when trying to overthrow the current social order. It would be be funny if it wasn’t so freaking tragic.

  7. rootlesscosmo

    Around 1950, Mary McCarthy wrote a terrific essay, “Up the Ladder from Charm to Vogue,” that mapped fashion magazines of the day against the social and economic class of their target audiences. Vogue, back then, typically showed aristocratic-looking women in evening gowns; they were in that peculiar form of subordination that entails teetering on a pedestal. They weren’t, however, shown being tortured by Nazi-like police. What a long way we have come, to be sure!

  8. Mar Iguana

    Aieeee yi, yi! Great googly moogly in vigorous circular motions, that’s frightening. Cop and whore chic. Italian Vogue has me freaked out entirely. Breathtaking. Took mine away a couple times anyways.

    How original. A mainstay of cop films’ appeal for decades is packing their fantasy squad rooms with bunches of women and girls in the hoochie unis they so love. “They” being The Blamed, of course.

  9. antelope

    I wonder how many of the models were thinking about the fact that they actually are “criminals” (a la Kate Moss), and that if they were junkies located somewhere else on the socio-economic scale, that really is pretty damn close to how they’d be treated.

  10. stormcloud

    ummm, did Vogue forget to specify the type of shoot when they commissioned it? Porn shoot, patriarchy-propaganda shoot, fashion shoot… it seems to be easy to confuse them…

  11. robin

    That slideshow is repulsive whether or not it was meant as a “joke”.
    The idea that dispicable and hateful rhetoric becomes harmless if it was meant as a joke is disingenuous in the extreme. I recently read about a member of the Duke U. lacrosse team who sent an email describing his desire to kill, skin, and ejaculate on the stripper they hired to entertain the team. Many people, including women undergraduates, excused this individual’s literary effort as a mere joke which people should “lighten up” about.
    Ha. Ha Ha.

  12. sparkledark

    Holy fuck that’s disturbing. It’s all a power play for the males. Are you sure this isn’t some sort of porn for men? I really could have down without seeing that I think. But it’s something to deliberate about.

  13. Summer

    Well, I never said anything about the ad being harmless, and that certainly isn’t what I meant. I thought–hoped–this could possibly be something Adbusters-esque, a “spoof ad” or “subvertisment,” as they call them. (You can see several examples of just such things at adbusters.org)

    In my reactionary fervor, perhaps I should have qualified what I meant by “joke” more succinctly than with “satire.”

  14. vera

    Vogue is execrable. I wonder how old those models are. Some of the heavily made-up and dressed-up models I’ve seen pictured in Vogue look like eight year olds in adult drag.

  15. mrs_enid

    What’s so fucking depressing is that, in 2006, that shit will get published in a mainstream magazine and practically no one bats an eye. If the police were beating up and undressing people from only one race or religion everyone would be up in arms. However, since they’re only focusing their attentions on one gender (and we know which one) it’s just peachy. Why are women always the lowest form of garbage?

  16. mrs_enid

    Serial posting to say that I don’t want my comment to give the impression that I believe that women have it worse off than any other oppressed group. I don’t really think that. I know that an oppression contest is bullshit. I’m just upset and ranting, and sick of seeing women portrayed as meat everywhere I look.

  17. KTal

    I”m a workin’ for the fashion pornographer
    so much better than bein’ a stenographer
    Put the make-up on and look all glam
    Let the boys behind the camera
    remind me of the slut I am

    Oh I’m so glad to be a fashion model
    struttin’ on the runway big as life
    no high heels will make me topple
    how my collar bone juts out like a knife!

    I’m such a slave for fashion
    to teach women everywhere
    that it is their sole function
    to be careful what they wear

    ‘step over here honey
    bend a little farther down
    because we have the money
    and you are our dancing clown.’

  18. Mar Iguana

    I believe that women have it worse off than any other oppressed group. Really.

  19. grandma blue

    That’s one of the most appalling things I’ve seen in a long time (the other is Bush behind a podium answering questions from the press).
    I wonder what the Italian women who read Vogue think of it. I hope they’ve gotten a lot of protests. I would protest, but I don’t know any Italian other than “buona sera”.

  20. slade

    I agree, Mar Iguana. The last ‘ism’ is sexism.

  21. KTal

    grandma: I know ‘mia’ and ‘vamoose’ although I don’t think that’s spelled right.

    we could chant ‘vamoose mia buona sera!’ go away my good something or other I guess.

  22. mrs_enid

    How about we chant “fongol?” That should get the point across.

  23. Twisty

    Are you sure this isn’t some sort of porn for men?

    The whole world is some sort of porn for men.

  24. Alecto Erinyes

    Now, Twisty, don’t you understand that the presence of some pictures of anorexic bimbettes caressing guns makes the whole slide-show really about women’s empowerment? And choices? Don’t forget choices! Because that’s what it’s all about, the choice to starve down to a size 0 and drape oneselve langerously over a semi-automatic in order to avoid being stomped …
    gaaah!!!

  25. dr_igloo

    The whole world is some sort of porn for men.

    It’s funny because it’s true.

  26. Jezebella

    TF: “The whole world is some sort of porn for men.”

    dr igloo: “It’s funny because it’s true.”

    It’s not funny. But it is true.

  27. klausfluoride

    If you think this latest iteration of the Patriarchy Machine is bad, also check out the latest issue of Elle, wherein which you will find an advertisement for shoes featuring a dead white woman stuffed into the trunk of a Lincoln while her formidably dressed (black) male assailant digs a hole for her.

  28. Shannon

    You know elsewhere in this world, poor women, women of color, and men of color are being treated in this way. It doesn’t make a good fashion spread to protray white women being maltreated in the same way. I don’t want to buy the clothes, I don’t think it looks cool, I just feel kinda sick.

  29. Friggas Own

    Vera: from what I understand most of the models for these shoots start somewhere near 16 years old and are conscidered past their prime at 25. So it’s not unlikely that you’re looking at some kid over-done to look older than she is.

    I couldn’t get all the pictures to load, I loathe flash because it’s such a resource hog. I got about 11 pictures in, and at least two of the models looked either dead or strung out for their pictures. I feel ill now.

  30. Betsy

    Dear God!

  31. Luckynkl

    I wonder what the Italian women who read Vogue think of it.

    **Scratches head** Why would you think Italian girls would think any differently than you do? I’m Italian and I can assure you that I’m as patriarchy-blaming as any of you white girls.

    I hope they’ve gotten a lot of protests. I would protest, but I don’t know any Italian other than “buona sera”.

    Here ya go, basic every day letter writing for the protestor in Italian:

    Sto scrivendo per dirvi, signore, che siate un cafone stronzo. Vaffanculo.

    Basically it means: I am writing to tell you, sir, that you are a common turd. Go fuck yourself.

    Sounds kind of romantic in Italian, no?

  32. veryveryviolet

    Yikes. Sometimes I forget the world is like this. Then I walk out my front door, or turn on the T.V., or my computer…

  33. jc.

    I was truly saddened to see these typical victims of airport “profiling” repression.

  34. susaneb

    I do a lot of sports, including rock climbing, which my boyfriend actually got me into a few years ago. It’s nice that women’s clothes are made to fit women, because that means that they fit me (i’m quite tiny and they simply don’t make men’s clothes in extra-extra-small-but-with-boobs) … but I’m consistently annoyed at the sexualization of workout clothes. Dear lord, I’m sweating like a pig when I’m running/climbing/swimming/etc…. I don’t need things like that!

    Needless to say my boyfriend doesn’t understand (he just thinks I’m being bitchy and that I should buy one of these skirts for climbing. … why???

  35. tuckova

    The first one I thought was a clever ad: “You may be required to strip down at airport security, so be sure to be fashionable all the way down to your unmentionables.” But then after that I lost the point. “Wear this so the cops will manhandle you”??

    Most of the time I can understand what they think they were doing, even if I disagree with how they accomplished it. But this I just don’t understand. Isn’t the supposed point of fashion that you will get “positive” attention for spending the extra cash on your clothes? The amount of this ad series that I could watch (I had to go vomit after the fourth one, so I can only talk about the first ones) was like an advertisement for negative attention.

    I think that the Patagonia ads are offensive only because they are putting fashion into what SHOULD BE function, and they are only putting the fashion with the women’s clothes… if the men’s ads read, “This masculine hiking jacket is totally masculine, emphasizing your rugged masculine form as you bring the mountain to heel under your masculine dominant blahdiblah” it would be, you know, stupid, but at least fair.

  36. KTal

    Tuckova: Possibly it would read:

    New! Our ‘Rough and Tough’ line of men’s hiking shirts. Designed for the man who knows that style never stops, whether cooking pancakes for the missus on the mountaintop, or hi- jinx at the ski lodge! Its all in fun and comfortable with perfect form flattering fit. Seams taper down along sides ever so slightly to accentuate the most important aspect of the male form for a pleasing, stylish look.

    Available in a wide variety of colors for every occassion! Buy one for each day of the week! Ten fantastic colors to complement every outfit: dandelion, orchid, lavender, rose, windbreeze, sunshine and bayberry.

    Check out optional matching binoculars and hiking boots on pages 12 and 45 respectively.

  37. Mandos

    Oh no! Not lavendar!

  38. Violet Socks

    This reminds me of when I was ordering a travel vest from Travel Smith so I could, well, travel. 8000 mile journey across the country with my dog, and I needed the maximum number of pockets that could be crammed onto a single garment. The men’s vest had 17 zillion pockets (estimating conservatively) while the women’s had two, being altogether “sleeker” and “more feminine.” I guess there was concern that people might not be able to see your boobs if you had too many rolls of film bulging here and there.

    Similarly, Land’s End is forever offering women’s versions of men’s things which are distinctive chiefly by having all the useful features removed. “We’ve re-tailored these pants without the pockets for a smoother, more feminine look!” Fuck you, twits: I want the goddamn pockets.

  39. Catherine Martell

    Tuckova says: “I had to go vomit after the fourth one, so I can only talk about the first ones…”

    Wow, then you missed a treat. In some of the later shots, a dead-eyed woman is allowed to join the police and hold a machine gun and point it off-camera at an unseen target. Presumably, Vogue & Steven Meisel see this as a devastatingly witty moment, turning the situation on its head and making the woman empowerful. Because obviously being co-opted as a footsoldier into the oppressor regime is just what feminists have always wanted.

    Of course, while she holds the big gun, she is also required to writhe on the floor in a minidress, in between two fully uniformed male security officers. Or, in another shot, have her backside fondled by a male officer while she fires at a paper target. Who wants to be empowerful if you can’t be feminine with it, hmmm?

    Next month’s edition will doubtless feature a fashion shoot on a plane with perfectly coiffed white women attempting to light shoe-bombs hidden in their Christian Louboutins, and sexily wrestling their way into the cockpit, before being set upon and beaten to death by the passengers. Or perhaps they’ll do a mock-up of Abu Ghraib, with elegantly manicured women in Alberta Ferretti shirtwaists tied to chairs and being raped and tortured by Marines.

    I feel safe in the notion that Voguettes don’t read IBTP, because otherwise there’d be a commissioning editor sitting in her office in Milan right now, going ‘Lo amo! Call Steven and get him on the next plane to Fallujah!’

  40. KMTBERRY

    Needless to say my boyfriend doesn’t understand (he just thinks I’m being bitchy and that I should buy one of these skirts for climbing. … why???

    So he can look up it when you are climbing? Or maybe so he AND HIS FRIENDS can look up it when you are climbing?

  41. sockpuppet

    There is only one question to ask. Do these pictures sell?

  42. Buttercup

    oy.

    and i’m a nice italian girl, too.

    (well, not “nice”, and if 45 can be considered a girl..)

    this shit makes me ashamed to admit it. but then again, when did fashion ever make sense? if it weren’t for the patriarchy, there would be no vogue or elle or haute coture and the only clothing store needed would be sears.

  43. Urban

    I too could not make it past about slide nine before I had to shut it down. It was so disturbing that it made me feel physically sick.

    Women have been so conditioned by the patriarchy into believing that being maltreated and dominated by men is somehow ‘sexy’, that it is now felt that this advert can be placed in a ‘fashion’ magazine.

    I need to go and get some air.

  44. educe

    I made it to slide three, at which point I clicked back here.

    I’d like to say I was shocked, but it was more along the lines of unimpressed, as in, “Figures.”

    I just hope my local cops don’t see this shit, but they probably have already imagined it (if not acted it out already).

  45. Pony

    I won’t go to the Vogue link. This one is enough.

    The thing is 13 inches long. ahahahaha.

    “From gritty boulder fields to glossy magazine pages, this short sport skirt, inspired by Lauren Lee, climber/fashionista extraordinaire, has been spotted in unexpected places. With its built-in short and hip hugging fit, outdoor athletes love the playful style statement that the Sugar Mini makes.”

    Fortunately most climbers have more brains. Pity the poor woman (you know copy writers are women) who has to write this shit to eat.

  46. Theresac

    WTF was that?

    I am saddened and disgusted by such misogynistic rhetoric!

    Jeezus H. Christ. What the hell is the world coming to? I’m so glad I don’t have children (especially girls) to bring up in this God Forsaken Place!

  47. Pony

    Susaneb: and you allow this man to belay you?

  48. Mar Iguana

    The tragic thing is, this vogue spread is merely a preview of coming attractions in the world-wide masculinity crisis. I will luck out only because I’m old and fat and will, therefore, be spending my retirement on scenic Yucca Mountain in Gilead.

  49. KTal

    educe:

    What I failed to mention because my heaed also exploded upon impact of the videos, was that in Oregon last week a deputy sheriff has been removed from street duty because he has demonstrated a habit of telling women he pulls over for traffic offenses, to remove parts of their clothing to ‘inspect’ for tattoos because a female subject with distinctive tattoos was a fugitive.

    Of course it was all fiction, no such woman existed and one woman was even brought to the station, placed in a cell and forced to take off her shirt and bra to provide for his ‘inspection’, he refused to even vacate while she removed said garments.

    Go to femniste if you want to view more about it.

    When I read that story and saw Twisty’s post, it was too much.

  50. dr_igloo


    TF: “The whole world is some sort of porn for men.”

    dr igloo: “It’s funny because it’s true.”

    jezebella: “It’s not funny. But it is true.”

    Twisty funny. The Twisty Statement funny. The Phenomenon, of course, very not funny.

  51. finnsmotel

    Scary stuff. That one girl almost got away. That’s all we need! Waifs on the loose!

  52. educe

    KTal,

    I’m a regular Feminite skimmer. It put a damper on my intentions to relocate to Oregon, but every state has its “problems”.

    Here in Greater Lafayette, Indiana, we haven’t had such reports. At least, nothing has been reported as of yet. Sort of like the rapes at our Big Ten University that go unreported.

    One would be hard-pressed (pun or no pun) to escape the patriarchy in this country, including the states with progressive communities.

  53. wolfa

    The post at LJ is amazing/disturbing just by the number of people saying how HOTTTT it is PLUS it’s a scathing commentary on the current social climate.

    (Warning — LJ link has scans of all (I assume) of them.)

    Quotes:

    he must’ve had fun with abusing models.
    for once i actually like steven meisel.

    I really like these, I don’t care if they are sexist or whatever. Violence can be sexy. Plus the blatant misogyny in this shoot is obviously there on purpose.

    See, sexism is ok when it’s not accidental and/or when it’s sexy.

  54. Sara

    Pardon me while I spare myself the slideshow.

    Thank you, luckynkl, for the Italian lesson.

    “…un cafone stronzo. Vaffanculo.”

    Bellissima.

  55. Pony

    What is “crema” in the taco context? I only get espresso context when I google it.

  56. grrr kitty

    I just had a really nice baby spinach & tomato salad with almonds which is now threatening to reappear thanks to that slideshow.

  57. Theresac

    Wow! Those LJ comments are incredible. I can’t believe anyone – especially women – actually like those shots.

    I guess any woman who likes them is from the “If-I’m-being-abused-and-suppressed-by-a-man,-at-least-I’m-being-noticed” school of thought.

    Those photos are just so. . . not sexy, not pretty, and anything but artistic.

    Ugh!

  58. whyme63

    Do enough men read Italian Vogue that it’s worthwhile for them to run porno spreads?

  59. slade

    This Live Journal Community…what horrid residents. I wish I didn’t know about them….is this LJ primarily for young people under 25?

    Have people lost the ability to empathize? Can they not place themselves, if women, or their mothers, if men, into these photos? Are these people looking forward to the coming police state?

    Or are they just so damn stupid and/or cowardly to speak up against a police state?

    Someone please give me an email address so I can address my anger and disgust at someone worthy of it….like the designer or photographer. I must rage at the guilty…thank you in advance.

    I need to personally blame.

  60. shannon

    Come now, Twisty, where’s your patriotism? If we lose our interest in fashion, the supermodels–I mean the terroists–have already won!

  61. thebewilderness

    Thank you Luckynkl, I shall make vigorous use of that excellent all purpose Italian blameogram.

  62. Broce

    You’ve hit on one of my pet peeves. I rock climb. And when I’m climbing, damnit, I’m a climber, I’m not “male” or “female.” Anyone who thinks it’s possible or desirable to look “typically feminine” while hanging on to the side of a cliff by your fingernails, covered head to foot in dirt, mud, chalk, bruises and scrapes, has never left the climbing gym behind. I’m a woman, not a cartoon cutout.

    As for the Vogue stuff…there are no words.

  63. langsuyar

    I have nothing much to add about the disgusting Vogue piece (vomit) but I do want to say something to Summer about adBusters and “subvertising”. Even when adBusters is using fashion spreads and sexy models and racy art to make a point against the dominant consumer culture they are still objectifying women, just repurposing that objectification. The glossy spreads in adBusters that feature vapid models and dirty victims are there as much for titillation as for detournement. Their audience is mostly male, their demographic mostly teen.

    *These guys are very hostile to any version of womanhood that doesn’t support one or the other end of the patriarchal spectrum. You’re either a Gucci pushing whore or a Madonna baking bread for your unschooled rebels in training.*

    The editors will themselve acknowledge that their rag wouldn’t sell if it wasn’t glossy and filled with exciting! interesting! images (which happen to contain in increasing proportions each issue either torture victims or half-naked women).

    I’ll still read adBusters over Vogue because they at least pay lip service to feminism every now and then. Now if only they could get over their obsession with images degrading women, their once a year article talking about feminist theory might not be such a joke in serious Critical Theory circles.

  64. Lorenzo

    The next time someone asks for a textbook example of objectification, I’ll point at this incredibly disturbing photoset.

    Also, Luckynkl

    Sto scrivendo per dirvi, signore, che siate un cafone stronzo. Vaffanculo.

    Perfetto!

  65. jbeeky

    Gross and disturbing. Speaking of disturbing, is anyone else going about their daily hulabaloo singing, “Tool, Tool, Tool of the Patriarchyyyyyyyyy….” under their breath?

  66. Twisty

    Do enough men read Italian Vogue that it’s worthwhile for them to run porno spreads?

    Women eroticize violence, too, you know? Particularly, I would surmise, women who are interested in couture, which is merely stylized misogyny.

  67. rootlesscosmo

    Pony: “crema Mexicana” is a version of sour cream. Delicious with plàtanos maduros, black beans and rice (moros y cristianos.)

  68. zippy

    Wow…explain to me how this isn’t horrendously offensive? Can I write a nasty letter on my very best heavy formal online stationary??

  69. Blamerella

    The whole world is some sort of porn for men.

    You beat me to it, Twisty.

    But hey, ladies. .0005% of women are hawt supermodels and get paid a lot of money to basically wear lip gloss and prance around in high heels. Sometimes they even get *paid* to have a dude step on their necks! Therefore, the remaining 99.9995% of you enjoy unfair advantages due to your feminine charms. Because of that whole supermodel revenue-sharing thing.

    At this writing I am still waiting for my checks.

  70. Blamerella

    Thanks langsuyar. Adbusters does suck mightily. Any feminist expression seems to be the exception more than the rule. I get the sense that they dislike sexist advertising more because it dupes men into buying stuff than because it exploits women. Repurposing the objectification is, as you said, what is going on there.

    Oh yeah, and fuck PETA too. For similar reasons.

  71. mrs_enid

    Jbeeky asked:
    “Speaking of disturbing, is anyone else going about their daily hulabaloo singing, “Tool, Tool, Tool of the Patriarchyyyyyyyyy….” under their breath?”

    And my answer is that I caught myself humming and singing it (albeit quietly) at work! That may explain why so few people stopped by my office today. That, or the everything bagel with scallion cream cheese that I had for lunch.

  72. langsuyar

    Blamerella: Yay, someone on my wavelength! Your senses do not deceive you about adbusters. Their dislike of advertising has everything to do with buying stuff, and if it ever concerns itself with the ideology of the message beyond “consumerism” it is in a heavily paternalistic “look what these ads do to our beautiful women, we must protect them from exploitation!” way. Seriously, look at their last either/or issue. On one side, hottt models getting violated to sell crap and flip it over and its a tear jerker about the purity of underdeveloped countries just trying to get enough to eat and aren’t those women just polar-fucking-opposites? The implied message is, of course, that “Western” women should stop buying stuff and get back to farming and raising kids, dammit, while their men tear down consumerist capitalism brick by brick.

    Try to argue a point with most of the guys in that movement and they will all but tell you that to your face.

    Oh, and I’m a vegetarian and PETA can suck my big toe.

  73. KMTBERRY

    ANOTHER great reason to buy all your clothes from the Academy Surplus Men’s department and/or the thrift store, or make them yourself. Sweet Baby Jesus, that slideshow made me PUKE.

    Women have been and can be SUCH A FORCE, all we have to do is NOT BUY what they are SELLING.

    I propose that we put an and to the fashion industry right away. Seriously.

  74. Pony

    Thanks rootlesscosmo. We call that smetana in Bohunkville, and serve it on Borscht. Anyway I have no idea what those other things are so here I go googling.

    Yes__ Fuck you Peta__says I while fluffing the fur and sealskin on my Inuit parka, which after hearing the long-term forecast this morning I dragged from the back of the closet. Sigh. Two years ago I was snowshoeing on Sep 9.

  75. Buttercup

    About LiveJournal-no, its not all under 25. It’s not all mindless. (well, maybe that community is…) You’re thinking of myspace.

    it’s not as bad as all that.

    well, apparently some communities are, but you know.

  76. Pony

    Another place to complain re the Vogue shoot: The International Center of Photography (very very prestigious) which gave Steven Meisel the 2006 award for fashion/ad shoots.

    Media Information:
    International Centre of Photography
    22nd Annual Infinity Awards
    Communications Office
    Tel: 212.857.0045
    Email: info@icp.org

    “Steven Meisel, Applied / Fashion / Advertising Photography
    Prolific and innovative, Meisel has shaped important trends in fashion for more than twenty years through major advertising campaigns for Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, and Versace, among others. Since 1988, Meisel’s photographs have appeared on every cover and lead editorial story of every issue of Vogue Italia.”

  77. rootlesscosmo

    Pony: my grandma called it smetana too, which puzzled me when I found out there was a famous Czech composer named Bedrich Sour-Cream.

  78. Summer

    I understand Adbusters’ repurposing; I suppose I’m more optimistic about it.

    That optimism, misplaced or not, comes from the belief that real change is possible. What I can’t seem to figure out is how a person can go about saying or doing anything to really change the status-quo when located squarely inside a system of dominance-submission. Inverting the paradigm doesn’t work, using (or re-purposing) the tools of the oppressor to give voice to the oppressed doesn’t work, and everything seems doomed to fail, or at least to be judged a failure. And, so, if opposing the patriarchy is a fruitless endeavor, why are we here? I mean, if it’s all for nought any damn way, why bother write? Why bother read?

    Integrity? Indulgence?

    Some of you have already come to terms with this, no doubt. I’m still trying to figure it all out.

  79. vera

    Summer: “Integrity? Indulgence?”

    Sanity.

  80. goslingblogger

    Wow. So horribly offensive on so many levels. Where to begin?

    Interesting that the shots apparently come from the good ol’ USofA (TSA, airport security here, along with “Police” in English). But the layout went to the Italian Vogue. I don’t know why it’s interesting, it just is.

    Though it made me sick I’m glad I saw it.

  81. FamousSovietAthlete

    Or perhaps they’ll do a mock-up of Abu Ghraib

    Slide number 5 made me think of Abu Ghraib.

  82. Mar Iguana

    They already have. Sort of. The pictures of the women detained at Abu Ghraib have not been released because it is thought it would make people really nut up. As if that would be a bad thing.

  83. Ron Sullivan

    Rock-climbing skirt. Right. Why the fuck don’t they just put ruffles on their crotchless climbing pants? I mean, get to the fucking point, ya know?

  84. SpinatTeig

    i think the patagonia marketing is a good example of the economic stability of patriarchy. sales people know exactly what to say to which target groups, by age and by gender. women who want to buy feminine-sounding or feminine-appearing climbing gear are as guilty here as the patagonia sales department.

    domination is bilaterally pornographic. that is, there exists both rape porn (male dominating female), and dominatrix porn (femdom). this analysis ignores other combinations (mm/ff/other) for the sake of simplicity.

    in the vogue shoot, the rape porn is much more vivid. some of the pics have the woman holding the weapon, subtly hinting at femdom. If it were really reversed, with riot gear clad women stepping on men’s necks and applying full-nelsons, it would still be pornographic. femdom is erotic for for many man and women.

  85. Ephiny

    Does anyone seriously go rock climbing in a skirt?? That seems like it would be incredibly impractical (wouldn’t it get caught up in your harness?), and wouldn’t the person belaying you, or anyone standing below) be able to see your underwear? Or is that the point?

    I don’t get why it’s so difficult for outdoors-clothing manufacturers to understand that all we usually need is the same equipment and clothing that they make for men, but sized and shaped slightly differently to fit women’s bodies. When I buy a waterproof jacket or other item, all I want is one that fits me, doesn’t come down to my knees and doesn’t have sleeves a foot too long. I don’t understand the purpose of making it pink or lilac and removing almost all the useful pockets. I don’t believe the majority of women who go climbing or hiking or sailing or other activities actually care about their clothing being feminine and pretty more than they care about it being practical. Pretty clothes are all very well, but they have their place, and half-way up a rock face or mountain is not it.

  86. saltyC

    Spinateig, there is no symmetry between male domination and female domination in porn. Both are staples of prostitution. Men pay women to pretend to dominate them, only to act out the misogynistic role of the “hateful bitch” to allow the men to come. The source was not a dominatrix acting out her fantasy, this was invented by johns. Women may participate in the role play, but it’s still men who are calling the shots.

  87. bigbalagan

    Rockclimbers, male or female, wear appropriate high-performance clothing which is basically totally functional. Since they are often enough risking life or at least limb, they generally don’t give a shit about Patagonia fashion.

    Vogue, on the other hand, and Steve Miesel, should be prosecuted for hate crime/speech. Just imagine the uproar if the subjects of subjection were black. I guess they would try to pass if off for verite. Could there be any clearer evidence of women as a subject class, of what the collective man secretly wants to do with them, or of how “fashion” subliminates that dominance? Actually, sublimination would be nice—what women get is both the sublimated manifestation and the direct violence. Amazingly up-front about it, Vogue is…

  88. Ms Kate

    I showed my 10 year old son the EMS, Patagonia, and REI catalogues. He picked up on the theme right away:

    “She’s not there to climb rocks, she looks like she’s there for sex” (EMS)

    “How come all the guys are wearing clothes and all the women are in their underwear????” (Patagonia)

    “The women are having fun together. They are going kayaking. The guy wants to come along, but they don’t have room and they didn’t invite him anyway, so they are ignoring him.” (REI)

    This is why I love REI: people in the catalogs are always using the clothing, having a good time, and not presenting themselves for the male gaze.

    EMS? It was all about the Male Gaze, at least the female models. Nicky picked that out right away. Patagonia’s female models don’t so much pose as if they were there for sex, but they wear absurd stuff in inappropriate context and never enought of it.

  89. Blamerella

    And, so, if opposing the patriarchy is a fruitless endeavor, why are we here? I mean, if it’s all for nought any damn way, why bother write? Why bother read?

    Because it’s preferable to donning an exercise corset while smiling and calling it a choice.

  90. librarytavern

    I was really hoping this was a spoof. That is absolutely disgusting.

  91. doulicia

    Don’t stop blaming the patriarchy, Twirly.

  1. Fashionista On Strike! Fangol Italian Vogue « Hedonistic Pleasureseeker

    [...] I can’t recall which feminist website broke this story to me first so I’ll credit all of you: IBTP, Feministe, Feministing, you know who you are! [...]

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