The foam-as-food trend, invented a few years ago by that El Bulli guy in Spain, has hit Austin at last. Or maybe it’s been here all along and I’ve eaten it 46 times but because I have chemo-brain it slipped my mind. But in any event, the other night at Zoot — an upscaly joint on Lake Austin Blvd — there appeared before me the above-pictured plate: crisp pork tenderloin, creamed spinach, and shrimp fritters. Shrimp ‘essence’ is what Zoot calls that pinkish scum you see bubbling up in the middle, and for some reason it was sort of delicious. Its resemblance to the gross stuff you skim off a simmering pot of fish stock is purely coincidental.
To make tasty shrimp scum, put a shrimp in a juicer. Combine it with gelatin. Insert the result in a whipped cream canister, and blast it onto a plate with nitrous oxide.