Archive for the 'Public Cans of Austin' Category

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Public Cans of Austin: Enoteca

the can at Enoteca
View from the porcelain throne in the Little Muffaletta Eater’s Room, Enoteca, South Congress

As far as ancillary cafés attached to popular South Congress “wood fired pizza” joints go, Enoteca, that previously-discussed bulge off the starboard side of Vespaio, is Stingray’s favorite.

fried oysters at EnotecaThe fried oysters we had there yesterday, which were breaded in cornmeal and came with chile mayo, were, I am sad to report, somewhat leaden and overfried and like unto little fishtank-flavored rocks that get off in your mouth, but the pissoir, as anyone can see, is the demented work of a mind unencumbered by either the burden of taste or a shortage of remnant tile.

Stingray enjoyed her muffaletta, which, because she has people in New Orleans, she pronounces “moofalotta.” The Enoteca version appeared to be little more than an excuse to smear assorted tapenades all over a big round bun.

Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

Public Cans of Austin: Jeffrey’s

The Soviet-era can at Jeffrey\'s
Bleakness on West Lynn: the scrumpy washroom at one of Austin’s premier face-stuffing destinations.

Sometimes Jeffrey’s is the best restaurant in Austin, so the fam took me there for my birthday the other day. Despite the fact that super-weird appetite-supressant/Texas Lt. Guv David Dewhurst was sitting a throwed roll away, I ate everything.

Jeffrey\'s famous fried oyster nachos

There were fried oyster nachos, which are storied and rightly so. These oysters appear to have mass, but are in fact composed of imaginary filaments, and as such are completely unaffected by gravity, and so must be swatted into the mouth as they float by.

Pea Green Soup

Then there was “chilled sweet pea soup” with a smoked shrimp floating in it. The pea soup part was frivolous, ethereal spiffiness-in-a-bowl, but I swore the shrimp was foot-funky, like a shrimp that has been rode hard and put away wet altogether more often than is recommended by today’s shrimpsperts. Stingray tested this suspect derelict shrimp and declared that I had my head up my ass. The specimen, she averred, was an upstanding representative of its species. It had probably won awards for citizenship and philshrimpopy. We should be throwing it a goddam tickertape parade, according to Stingray, instead of casting these baseless aspersions.

It turns out that even 3 weeks out of chemo, my tastebuds still can’t be trusted around certain crustaceans.

birthday custard

Then there were a couple of lamb chops with a cherry sauce, which were sadly sort of tough, but still way better than the frozen pizza I would have had if I’d stayed home, and some corn pone, which was poney, and finally a meyer lemon custard with a birthday candle in it, which you see above, and some tawny port. Can I get a hell-yeah for some tawny port to take the edge off a 2-hour dinner with the fam?

Then I went to the bathroom. For a joint where you can spend $150 a person without even breaking a sweat, the can at Jeffrey’s is pretty Soviet.

I am 47. Hip fuckin hooray.

Public Cans of Austin: The Green Coffeeshop

In St. Louis, Missouri, where I was exiled for half a century, Clementine’s is the name of a leather bar where I once nearly fainted from the violent stench of bursting male groins. In Austin, Clementine’s is the name of the green coffeeshop on Manor Rd. where I sometimes meet Stingray for a medium iced and an oatmeal cookie. I always refer to it as The Green Coffeeshop because, all these years later, the word “Clementine” still makes me think of clots of writhing mustachioed homos in buttless black chaps. Which mental tableau doesn’t exactly get the spinster aunt’s motor running.

The Green Coffeeshop, I am happy to report, is crisp and serene. If there are desperate engorged members slouched upon their orange IKEA couches, their owners have the good taste to keep’em corralled inside perfectly frayed jeans.

The avocado/pea/olive green with which the green coffeeshop is painted is a very popular color for small, clean, with-it, non-ejaculatory Austin buildings. It announces that somebody within knows from Design, and that her message is “We are in our 30’s now; crustypunkism is dead.”

The Green Coffeeshop vibe, in fact, is anti-leather. It is possibly Anti-Human-Interaction. Let’s face it, it’s a goddam Anglo-Saxon library in there. Everybody is white. Everybody is quiet. Everybody wears something between Urban Outfitters and Banana Republic. Everybody is alone. Everybody stares transfixedly into a laptop, segregated by operating system (Windows on the left. Macs on the right). Apart from the XM radio playing French hip-hop, the only sound, at least when I’m in residence, is my own hearty guffawing, usually over my own jokes. Nobody actually glares at me, but my boisterosity has the effect of making the quiet seem even more resilient.

This atmosphere has no effect whatsoever on Stingray. She is a low-talker herself.

The Green Coffeeshop has the best oatmeal cookies in all of Austin.

Behind The Magic: The Making of “Public Cans of Austin: Donn’s Depot”

bend over
The graffito reads “DUDE some-one seriously needs to show me what it feels like to get my ASS giggled.” “Bend over” suggests some subsequent respondent, reasonably.

Because the compulsion to illuminate the infinitely tedious minutiae of Central Texan existence is what separates the spinster aunts from the boys, today I inaugurate my latest project, a new photo series I like to call “Public Cans of Austin.”

It began thusly: After getting outside four exquisite courses at the excruciatingly decent Jeffrey’s on West Lynn, Stingray and I sped off into the night. Forty-seven seconds later Donn’s Depot Piano Bar and Lounge hove into view.

“Why not?” I asked.
“Why not?” Stingray agreed.

When liquid refreshment lies on the other end of a proposition, Stingray, it must be noted, is Congeniality itself.

So I crammed the truck into the last parking space, and the stoop of Donn’s Depot—already afflicted with an unnatural crepuscularity—we did proceed to darken.

Donn’s Depot is a capacious, shambling dive reeking of denial, Ben-Gay, and crumbled dreams. Keepin’ it real, I ordered a Budweiser, a habit formed during my 25-year exile in St. Louis, but Stingray kept it local with a Tito’s Handmade Vodka (“handmade” vodka! The American fetishization of an utterly flavorless booze is a constant source of mirth to the cynical spinster aunt/wino. Verily I say unto thee: vodka, like Jesus, is encrusted with baloney).

Smoking in Austin bars, even one like Donn’s Depot which is begrimed with enough nicotine residue to immobilize the lungs of anyone who so much as drives by, is by unpopular decree considered a crime against humanity punishable by 25-to-life. So, bearing our cocktails like chalices, Stingray and I lambada-ed on feather-light feet across the parquet dance floor and made for the deck to fire one up (an Austin bar without a deck is like a day without Fox News reporting on a serial killer against a backdrop of bouncing teen boobies).

god bless america On the deck a perfect breeze whipped up from the lake. In the cavalier fashion of spinster aunts who have just been well stuffed with exotic cuisine and New Zealand bubbly, we leaned back with both elbows on the rail watching the SUVS roar hypnotically down 5th Street. Stingray chatted of this. I chatted of that. Some little time later we observed a booze cruise pull up and disgorge into Donn’s Depot a murder of revelers who, sharing but the flimsy bond of some tedious daytime interest, couldn’t spend the evening in one another’s company without being imprisoned on a bus together and fed quantities of alcohol.

The band began an ill-advised cover of “The Lion Sleeps Tonight.”

“Hmm,” I ventured.
“Hmm,” Stingray agreed.

A whipping sound above our heads caused us to glance upward. We could naught but perceive an enormous sheet of red, white and blue fabric snapping in the night wind.

What was this thing? A strong sensation of familiarity washed over me. I felt deeply as if I’d seen something very like it, yet very unlike it, before. The enormous Twisty brain eventually formulated the most likely explanation. It was some poor, inept outsider artist’s attempt to create one of those “Kill Iraqis” ribbon magnets one sees on all the Ford F-150s. Only the poor chump had gotten it all wrong. It was too big, too flaccid, too unmagnetized to be of any use to a truck-driving bigot. And so here hung the failed endeavor, a drooping, emasculated, almost nonpartisan anomaly, suspended from a lonely pole at Donn’s Depot, helping to Keep Austin Weird.

During these deep ruminations, the Budweiser had worked its singular magic upon my internal systems, and it became necessary to repair to the Ladies Room. Behind the door of which privy I beheld a spectacle of uncommon and romantic magnificence. Whereupon tears of red velvet kitsch welled up in my eyes, and Public Cans of Austin was born.

4000-year-old joshua tree in Donn\'s Depot can the absinthe drinker
Left: Donn’s Depot’s little-known 4000-year-old joshua tree. Right: Stingray enraptured by the grimy red shag grandeur.